I had been wanting to see the golden larches – the unique deciduous conifers that lose their needles in winter, but not before they turn a gorgeous golden yellow – ever since I started spending more time in the Pacific Northwest. Back in 2024, I saw plenty of reels on Instagram that showcased their beauty. But their popularity also came with unbelievable traffic jams on Highway 20 and at the most popular trailheads in and around North Cascades National Park. The weather and the exact timing of the larches’ peak colors were also big variables.
In the fall of 2025, I kept an eye on the weather as September drew to a close. I noticed that the weekend of Oct 4-5 looked very promising. It was going to be just a tad early for peak colors, but the following weekend’s weather looked horrible and I also hoped that the earlier timing would draw fewer crowds. I also didn’t want to take time off work but I wanted to be on the trail early Saturday morning, so I schemed the following itinerary to accomplish that. It basically forms one giant counter-clockwise circle from Portland, OR.
| Day | Activity | Overnight |
|---|---|---|
| 1 (Thu) | Drive from Portland, OR to Yakima, WA (~3 hours) | Yakima, WA – Home2Suites |
| 2 (Fri) | Drive from Yakima to Winthrop (~4 hours) | Winthrop, WA – AbbyCreek Inn |
| 3 (Sat) | Hike! | Marysville, WA – Holiday Inn Express |
| 4 (Sun) | Drive home | home |
Day 1, Thursday – drive from Portland, OR to Yakima, WA (~ 3 hours)
I left work as early as I could and headed out. The drive was beautiful as I84 took me east into the desert. Then, I crossed the Columbia river and headed north to Yakima. I stayed at the Home2Suites by the airport. I had a huge room with a dedicated desk, which was great for my half workday the next day. The 12 pm checkout was also perfect.
Day 2, Friday – drive from Yakima, WA to Winthrop, WA (~4 hours)
I worked a half-day from my hotel, then drove to Winthrop. All of a sudden, I was next to the Columbia again. I thought I had left it behind for good when I crossed over to Washington the day before! The route took me past the Gorge Amphitheater, an outdoor concert venue on the river I have been wanting to check out. I gassed up in Wenatchee while smoke from the Lower Sugarloaf fire lingered in the air. Wenatchee is close to Leavenworth, which I visited for Christmas in 2023.
Once in Winthrop, I checked into my hotel, the AbbyCreek Inn. I loved the outdoor hot tub and sauna, but before I could enjoy them, I needed to get some food!
Winthrop surprised me with its cuteness! The town was restored to its 1900s western look in the 1970s and is adorable! The food was great, too! I had a delicious Mediterranean dinner at Meza, then picked up some pastries for my hike the next day from Jupiter. Jupiter’s patio looked so inviting!
Day 3 – Larch March
Winthrop put me within 40 minutes of the best trails along Highway 20, including my desired trail to Cutthroat Pass. The 10-mile trail climbs gently up the Pacific Crest Trail to a beautiful view of the North Cascades, with plenty of golden larches along the way. They start about 3.5 – 4 miles in. You can also access Cutthroat Pass via this slightly longer and steeper trail, which is less trafficked. Another good option for a longer hike is Maple Pass Loop, but I have already done that, albeit in the summer.
I got to the trailhead at 7 am and was able to park right in the lot. A handful of cars were right behind me but there are still 2 spots open in this photo I took as I started on the trail.
Here is a photo dump of the views along the way. In true PNW fashion, the forecast changed a bit before my trip. Saturday was now off to a foggy and misty start but the weather improved as time went by. Sunday definitely looked better weather-wise, but what can you do!
That doesn’t mean it was not busy! Highway 20 was packed with cars on both sides as I left around 12:30 pm.
I backtracked a bit to Washington Pass Overlook, which was now bathing in the sun. The views were amazing and I got to see more golden larches on the slopes.
I was staying in Marysville, on the north side of Seattle, that night, so I headed there after. A stop at Diablo Lake was obligatory as I headed east.
Day 4 – hike again if you spent the night in Winthrop, or drive home
If you want a bit of flexibility for weather and don’t mind a longer drive home on Sunday, spend two nights in Winthrop and hike both Saturday and Sunday. A good shorter hike to do is Blue Lake. I simply drove home from Marysville that day.